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by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Narasaki and Noguchi win Japan Combined Cup
Akiyo Noguchi and Tomoa Narasaki won the Japan Combined Cup which only included Lead and Boulder. A new scoring system was tested where the winners got 100 points in each discipline. 1. Akiyo Noguchi 200 - Tomoa Narasaki 200 2. Miho Nonaka - Kokoro Fuji 3. Saari Watanabe - Yoshiyuki Ogata It should …
2 GriGris to toprope with less rope drag
Sometimes the anchor is placed so it is almost impossible to come down from the anchor without creating a massive rope drag and wear of the rope. If you want to toprope such a route, one possible solution is to pull down an extra full rope length to the ground and "tie in with a Grigri", including a…
The best onsighting kids
Adam Ondra is the best climber in the world and the discipline he is most superior in is onsights. When he was a kid and a teenager, his focus was onsight and I always try to tell the talented youngsters and their parents that they should opt for onsights rather than projecting one route for months.…
Grades should be based on climbers suited for the route
Let us say that a 180 cm tall climber thinks a route with a dyno crux is 8a, while the 170 cm tall guy says it is 8b and the 160 cm tall guy grades it 8c. If grades were based on the average consensus, this route should be graded 8b but this is clearly not correct. Instead, grades should be based o…
# CLIMB TO TOKYO
Working towards goals with motivation, discipline and a lot of heart and soul, taking on challenges and getting back up after setbacks... Hannah knows this all …
Shauna Coxsey retires from comps after Tokyo
Shauna Coxsey, who has stood on 30 World Cup podiums and won eleven gold medals, has announced on Insta that the Olympics in Tokyo will be her last competition.…
Eastern Europe dominate in Imst
The European Youth Cup in Imst, Austria, showed opposite results compared to normal. In Lead, Eastern Europe dominated with five golds at the same time Western Europe got five gold in Speed. Olympian, Alberto Ginés Lopéz from Spain won the oldest male category in Lead. France did not participate and…
Olympic prediction odds
Making an Olympic prediction is harder than ever. One year has passed since the last Lead World Cup. Furthermore, only half of the Olympians participated in all three events in Salt Lake City last month. We nevertheless take the chance to predict the winning odds for the Top-5: 1. Tomoa Narasaki 2.5…
6.28 by Olympian Alberto Gines Lopez (19)
Alberto Gines Lopez, who has focused on Euro Youth Cups, finally had a great result when he won the Speed qualification with 6.28, setting a new PB. Out of the 20 Olympians, only the three Speed specialist and Tomoa Narasaki and Mickael Mawem have a better PB. As the Combined results are multiplied …