Brazilian Fashion: first impressions March 2001

Brazilian fashion is getting ready to conquer the world. In South America's economic giant and the world's fifth-largest country, changes are happening fast and after many years of shameless counterfeiting, Brazilian fashion designers have now gained great self confidence and their unquestionable talent is just starting to be shown and acclaimed abroad.

Over the last 500 years, Brazil has, in a very singular way, assimilated and blended the various cultures and peoples that created the country, from the Indian ancestors to the Dutch or the Angolan, and transformed them into distinct Brazilian features and a culture distinctive for its uniqueness, its richness and variety across the country. Despite being confronted with unresolved (and sometimes worsening) major difficulties, especially at the social, economic, political and racial levels, Brazil today is rapidly evolving and shows an ability to turn some of its past weaknesses into strengths. To take just one example, after being deeply affected by the Aids virus, Brazil has inched into the spotlight as a model for other developing nations and after the start of a controversial policy to manufacture and produce its own generic medicines that has the nation at odds with pharmaceutical manufacturers, the spread of the disease has been stabilized and Aids deaths were cut by half between 1996 and 1999.

It is widely agreed that there has been a 'fashion boom' in Brazil since 1999. The last two years have seen great changes and progress in the fashion industry in Brazil, from heavy investments and modernisation in textile factories to the acclaimed participation of Brazilian fashion designers in the Paris and London fashion shows. The fashion industry in Brazil is professionalising and improving its quality and image at all levels. Not to be forgotten are the many Brazilian top models on the international catwalks who play a significant role in focusing the world's attention on Brazil.

Brazilian fashion design is best seen during the biannual Sao Paulo Fashion Week (formally known as MorumbiFashion) where the catwalks present the creations of the top Brazilian designers and designer brands. Whether self-taught fashion designers, or entrepreneurs with strong experience in jeans or the casual-wear business, they all encompass the many faces of Brazil: colourful, sexy, avant-garde and experimental. Now held in the Sao Paulo Biennale pavilion, one of the finest examples of Oscar Nimeyer's architectural wonders, this brilliantly organised event launched in 1996 is attracting more and more the attention of fashion professionals worldwide.

2000 was a particularly good year for Brazilian fashion designers achieving international recognition and securing overseas sales. Alexamdre Herchcovitch, Icarius (based in Paris) have already successfully participated in the Paris and London biannual fashion shows, while Lino Villaventura, Reinaldo Lourenco, Walter Rodrigues and Carlos Miele/ M Officer are attracting buyers in their overseas showrooms. The list does not stop here and to mention just one more, Rosa Cha's fabulous beachwear is very sought after by the world's most glamorous sun lovers.

Not so close to the limelight, but equally talented if not more so, are individuals following their own singular creative stems. The traditional work of the crafts people from the Nordeste region (especially the states of Ceara, Pernambuco and Maranhao) illustrate an incredibly rich popular culture, ranging from lace and basketwork to graphic arts with the 'cordal' (popular literature) and sculptures seen in the exceptional wooden pieces of the artist Nino. Others follow even more unusual paths, like Marcia Ganem, based in Salvador de Bahia, whose jewel-like and very theatrical clothes are truly contemporary but derived from the beliefs and music of Candomble.

Anne Sobotta
Freelance consultant, c/o Visiting Arts

This article is based on a piece of extensive research on the Brazilian fashion industry commissioned by the Creative Industries Export Promotion Unit (CIEPU) at the British Council and undertaken by Anne Sobotta of Visiting Arts working for CIEPU. The resulting report, which will be available in late June 2001, will support a series of events and an outward trade mission to Brazil organized by the CIEPU and the British Council office in Sao Paulo.

Eventually, the aim of the CIEPU is to produce a series of reports which look at the different strands of the arts and creative industries sectors in Brazil. It is planned that the next reports will cover the performing arts then heritage.

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