Thick-fingered Gecko
(Pachydactylus sp.)

By: Gregory J. Watkins-Colwell

Cage size:

Minimum of a 5.5 gallon aquarium (14 inches long, 8 inches wide and 10 inches high) for a pair of these geckos. Wider or longer cages are better than tall, narrow cages, but height is still important because they do climb. Smaller species can be housed as pairs in 2.5 gallon tanks. Larger species will need 10 gallon or larger.

Decorations/substrate:

Bottom substrate should be clean sand, about 1 inch deep. Because females dig during egg-laying season, plants tend to not work. Some form of shelter should be provided at all times. Up-side-down flower pots, empty coconut shells or PVC pipe serve well for shelters.

Temperature:

85-90 F degrees in the day. Night temperatures can reach the low to mid 70's F. Lower temperatures can be reached during winter months. An under tank heater (or heating tape) works well and should be situated so that part, but not all, of the shelter is sitting over it. If the area under the shelter is too hot, the lizards will refuse to use it and become stressed during the day when forced to remain exposed.

Humidity:

Thick-fingered geckos come from a variety of habitats, all essentially arid. However, they are generally not desert dwellers. Some humidity and sand moisture are required. A small water bowl should be provided at all times and the sand in one section (near the bowl) sprayed lightly with water 2-3 times per month. Directly spraying the animals is stressful and should be avoided.

Lighting:

Thick-fingered geckos do not bask. However, maintain the lighting on a set schedule that can vary seasonally from as little as 8 hours of daylight (in winter) to as much as 14 hours of daylight. A full-spectrum fluorescent bulb and a small incandescent bulb (for heat) seem to work well.

Food:

A wide variety of insects (including crickets, mealworms, wax worms, flies, etc.) are taken. Some individuals also take small pink mice or small lizards. A good calcium supplement is important, especially for breeding females. Calcium should be provided at all feedings. During breeding season it can be provided in a dish in addition to that dusted on the food.

Breeding:

Breeding season is lighting and temperature dependent for the most part. A brief 2-3 month cool period may be necessary to induce breeding. When daylight hours number more than 12 and temperature is on the higher end breeding will occur. This generally begins in April. Clutches of 2 eggs are laid roughly every 3-4 weeks for the duration of the summer, for a total of perhaps 5 or 6 clutches.

The hard-shelled eggs are buried in the sand generally near the glass on the bottom of the tank. A female will tend to lay eggs in the same basic area each time providing the heat and moisture remain relatively constant. Eggs should be carefully removed and incubated on dry sand (eggs should not get wet) at 84 F. Hatching occurs after 2-3 months incubation. Eggs left in the cage may hatch and survive for some time with the adults, but for safety sake should be removed and reared separately.

Juveniles should be reared in separate containers because they tend to compete for food. An empty plastic film canister serves well as a shelter, the lid of it can be used for a water dish. A thin layer of sand should be provided. Small crickets are generally taken right away. Shedding can be a problem with hatchlings of some species. Care should be taken to maintain the proper humidity and nutrition. Hatchlings seem to have less tolerance for improper humidity (usually too low) than do adults.