Mossy Leaftail Gecko

  (Uroplatus sikorae)

Care Sheet

  By Robert Gundy

 

 

INTRODUCTION

Uroplatus sikorae, like the rest of the genus, are nocturnal and arboreal. They are a medium sized Uroplatus species, reaching a maximum of 8 inches (svl), but generally stays around 6-7 inches.. U. sikorae is a bark mimic and may more closely resemble the bark of a tree trunk than any other species. The U. sikorae usually has an over all brown color that closely resembles the pattern of tree trunks, sometimes with patches of green to imitate lichen that grows on the trunks. Occassionally all green, bi-colored (green or brown and white) and specimens showing red, pink or even light purple are found. U. sikorae, like U. fimbriatus and U. henkeli, have dermal flaps all along the edges of it’s head, body and limbs to blend in with the surface of tree trunks and to eliminate any shadows.

 

HOUSING

These geckos can be housed in several different types of enclosures. All-Glass enclosures, large Rubbermaid or Sterilite containers or Vision Cages can all be used. The most commonly used enclosures are all-glass fish tanks and make great displays. Rubbermaids and Sterilites are for strictly breeding, and not for display. Vision Cages are a nice, attractive display, but can be pricey. A pair of sikorae can be housed in a minimum enclosure size of 20 US gallons. A 30-gallon long is much more comfortable, or a 30-gallon extra high can be used and can hold up to 1.2. I do not suggest housing more than 1.2 at a time, as it allows for disputes between animals. Always use a screen top rather than an all glass top. As a general rule, males shouldn’t be housed together, but some have had success keeping them in colonies of 2.2.

 

TEMPERATURES AND HUMIDITY

Temperatures should be 72-78 during the day, and 68-72 at night. Temperatures should NOT exceed 80 degrees for any extended period of time. Opening a window in the reptile room at night to let in a cool breeze helps keep the temperature down at night here in southeast Florida. Humidity should be 75%+. This can be done by keeping a moist substrate and misting the cage 2-3 times daily.

 

 

 

SUBSTRATES

There are numerous different substrates available, including commercial “reptile” substrates. Any type cedar or pine product is completely out of the question, as it is very toxic to all reptiles. Bed-A-Beast (cocofiber), sphagnum peat moss, sphagnum moss, and orchid moss are all very good substrates. I have had personal success with Bed-A-Beast and partial success (up to 6 months) with live fern moss and also peat moss. They keep in humidity well and are safe if ingested and will not hurt the nose of a sikorae that lunges to the ground in pursuit of a hot meal.

 

CAGE ACCESSORIES

Plants, branches and vines are all great things to add in the cage. For plants my choices are small yucca plants, Cryptanthus sp. and Dieffembachia (pothos-like plant usually found in pots 1 gal or larger, but found in 6” pots as well). These are all inexpensive plants that do well under low light conditions. I feel the leaves and “branches” of small pothos (6” pots) are too thin and are not stable enough to hold the weight of an adult U. sikorae.  Branches are a necessity in any Uroplatus cage. Bamboo is the most commonly used wood for branches. Bamboo branches should be at least 1-1.5” in diameter. Cork bark flats are very useful. It serves as resting spots during the day, places to wait for ambushing crickets and as an egg laying spot. I like to use a full cork bark background on the rear wall of the tank. They seem to like to rest during the day there as well.

 

UVB LIGHTING-

UVB lighting has always been a controversy between Uroplatus keepers. I think it may not be absolutely necessary, but it couldn’t hurt. Uroplatus are exposed to UVB rays in the wild while sleeping on tree trunks during the day. They hide on leaves, branches and tree trunks, not hidden under ground litter, so they definitely get exposure from UV. UVB certainly can’t be detrimental, so I use it. If anything it will be beneficial to the plantlife. I have not noticed any difference in behavior or coloration, but cages are much more attractive lit up. I have found small, portable 18” fluorescent fixtures at Home Depot for $8 and UV bulbs for plants for around $6-8ea. I personally prefer the Repti-Sun 5.0 UVB bulb for my U. sikorae because the cage is tall.

 

FEEDING-

For adult U. sikorae, 3/4"-1” crickets are the best choice. They’re hardy, cheap and nutritious.  Others feed mealworms, silkworms, and moths. They don’t seem to pay much attention to slow moving prey, quick moving prey like crickets catch their eyes immediately though. To get the maximum nutritional value out of the crickets, gut load them with a high protein and high calcium diet of some sort. Commercial gut loads and cat/dog/chicken chow can all be used. I dust them with by alternating Rep-Cal or Miner-All, Herptivite and not dusting every feeding. One feeding I dust with Rep-Cal or Miner-All, the next feeding I use Herptivite and the next feeding I don’t dust them at all, then I repeat the cycle.  I give them as many crickets as I think they can handle, and I feed them every other day.

 

BREEDING-

Captive breeding U. sikorae is not so common, but captive breedings have been increasing slowly. Hatching babies from gravid import females is more common. A cycle to simulate breeding can be used. It can’t hurt. Drop temperatures to 65-70F at night and 68-72 during the day. Eggs are white and spherical. Their diameter is about that of a dime. They will be laid on or in the substrate, sometimes covered by loose debris. Infertile eggs are yellowish, and do not harden and are nearly always glued to something in the cage. The gestation period is about 30 days. However, I have one female that lays eggs every 15 days.

 

    INCUBATION

Incubation time is 60-90 days and some have even hatched out eggs at 120 days. Incubation temperature should be from 69-78 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures should not rise above 78. Humidity should be around 75-85%. I have hatched out U .sikorae in 64-71 days at room temperature (69-76F).  I like to use orchid moss as an incubation medium. Some have had babies smother themselves to death in vermiculite shortly after hatching. The medium should be re-moistened periodically by dripping water around the egg, not on it. Dripping water on the egg may drown the embryo and/or cause mold growth. A hova-bator or other incubator can be used if you can sustain the correct temperatues. These can be bought at online reptile supply stores for relatively inexpensive prices.

 

CARING FOR THE HATCHLINGS-

Hatchling U. sikorae should be kept the same way as the adults comparitively. The first thing is, the baby has to be strong to survive, that is the first step. If the baby is not strong to begin with, there really is little hope. The key to keeping the babies is the right temperature and humidity. Keeping the temperatures correct is the biggest thing. The babies have a very high metabolism and they simply cannot tolerate high temperatures. Keeping them cool will keep them alive. Temperatures should be 70-72 during the day and 68-72 at night.  Humidity 80-85% is best. Enclosures ranging from one-gallon Kritter Keepers to 5-gallon tanks should be used. I recommend a substrate that they will not swallow when diving for prey. Some suggest using layers of paper towels and brown paper bag as substrate. If so, use brown paper bag pieces because some say the white paper towels may strain their eyes. I like to use orchid moss. I’m also experimenting with a piece of t-shirt as a substrate. The t-shirt won’t be ingested and will hold humidity longer than paper towel. I have used a layer of wet orchid moss covered by a piece of t-shirt. The ground they will land on is then soft and the orchid moss will help supply moisture and humidity.  They should be fed 1/4" crickets. Mine seem to have no interest in fruit flies. Alternate between calcium and vitamin/mineral supplements at every feeding for the first 20-30 days. After this normal supplementation of calcium used 2 times a week is fine. A small pothos in small 4” pots placed in the enclosure may be utilized. Cover up the soil with Bed-A-Beast or similar non-acidic product. Make sure there are no pesticides, fertilizers or the small foam balls exposed.

 

SUGGESTED READING

Henkel, F. W. and W. Schmidt. 1995. Geckoes. Krieger Publishing Company. Malabar, Fl.

 

Spiess, Petra. Nature’s Dead Leaves and Pez Dispensers: Genus Uroplatus (Flat-Tail geckos). Rocky Mountain Herpetoculture

 

Love, Bill. 2001. Reptiles Magazine. Stalking the Action (Parts 1 & 2).

 

Glaw, F and M. Vences. 1994. A Fieldguide to the Amphibians and Reptiles of Madagascar. 2nd ed. Germany: Moos Druck, Leverkusen

 

Boulenger, G. A. 1888

Descriptions of new Reptiles and Batrachians from Madagascar.

Ann. Mag. nat. Hist. (6) 1: 101-107.

 

NUSSBAUM, R. A. and C. RAXWORTHY 1995

New Uroplatus DUMÉRIL (Reptilia: Squamata: Gekkonidae) of the ebenaui-group from the Anosy Mountains of southern Madagascar.

Copeia. 1995(1):118-124.

 

NUSSBAUM, R. A. and C. RAXWORTHY 1994

A new species of Uroplatus DUMÉRIL (Reptilia: Squamata: Gekkonidae) from southern Madagascar.

Herpetologica. 50(3):319-325.

 

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

I would like to give a special thanks to Bill Love for providing with some of the information on this care sheet. I would also like to thank Aline Rakotinirina Reptiles for the wonderful animals I have purchased from them.

 

CONCLUSION-

I hope this care sheet gave some helpful information to all of those interested in keeping Uroplatus sikorae. They are a wonderful and amazing species of gecko that will bring enjoyment to those who will take the time and dedication to properly care for them. If you have any further questions on U. sikorae and U. phantasticus as well, I will be happy to answer any questions. You can email me at Reptiluvr@yahoo.com

 

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